VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY: JOURNEY UP THE CHINDWIN RIVER

By Ellen & Hank Barone

Hundreds of curious villagers, young and old, lined the sandy riverbank as our motor launch approached. Smiling and waving, they greeted us like celebrities, their dark eyes alight with excitement and wonder. Throngs of children scrambled down to the water's edge, eager for a closer glimpse of our foreign faces and clothing.

We looked and were looked at. It felt odd; yet agreeable.

This was the inaugural, nine-day, 400-mile voyage aboard the luxury river cruiser Road to Mandalay up the Chindwin River into Myanmar's remote northwest corridor, a region seldom visited by tourists.

The Chindwin River, officially a tributary of the Ayeyarwady, is one of the great rivers of Asia. Rising in the hills of Assam and the Hnkawang Valley in Kachin State, the Chindwin passes successive mountain ranges, winding its way through western Myanmar, at times very close to the Indian border, and eventually flowing into the Ayeyarwady River north of Bagan.

Along the river time stands still, a tableau of rural life unchanged by centuries. From the verdant banks rise teak and thatched bamboo dwellings, homes to the excited children who ran shrieking and waving from the water's edge as the ship passed by. Women walked along the steep, fragile banks balancing heavy water jars atop their heads with perfect grace. Mothers washed clothes and bathed on the river's sandy shore, while their naked children played alongside them. Farmers tended their fields utilizing ox and buffalo rather than tractors or machinery. Elegant monasteries, seemingly stranded from all civilization, loom above a lush canopy of treetops.

The river remains Myanmar's lifeline, the people and economy ever dependent on its vital natural source. A bustling array of river craft included fishermen in tiny teak sail and fishing canoes, bamboo rafts with small thatched huts precariously perched on deck and cargo, barges, and long, colorful cargo vessels. Diesel-converted steamer ferries of yesteryear, heir to the old Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, many dating back 80 or 100 years to the British era, shuttled passengers, food, produce and even livestock to and fro.

While Road to Mandalay's usual itinerary, along the Ayeyarwady between Mandalay and Bagan, offers passengers a memorable travel experience -- it was the opportunity to explore the remote Chindwin region that brought us back for our second voyage aboard Road to Mandalay. In fact, among the 27 passengers onboard, all but a handful were returning for a second -- or even third -- trip. One Australian passenger explained her reason for booking the exclusive Chindwin voyage saying "There's an appeal in going to a place where you're not sure what's out there."

Sleek and modern, Road to Mandalay never failed to draw a crowd. As we traveled up river, people gathered along the shoreline, waving enthusiastically. We waved back.

Like us, most passengers begin the trip with a visit to the capital city of Yangon and a stay at the historic colonial-era Strand Hotel built in 1901 along the bank of the Yangon River. An afternoon city tour included stops at the reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgy Pagoda and a visit to the city's most impressive site, the Shwedagon Pagoda -- "a beautiful, winking wonder" as Rudyard Kipling described it.

After Yangon, a short flight to Mandalay brought us to Mandalay for an overnight at the Sedona Hotel and a city sightseeing tour.

After three days in Myanmar, we ultimately joined Road to Mandalay in Monywa, traveling by air-conditioned motor coach from Mandalay.

The 65-cabin, Orient-Express Hotels owned and operated, Road to Mandalay began her sailing career as one of three sister ships built between 1964 and 1965 for cruises along the Rhine. In 1995, more than US$6 million was spent on renovations, installing lavish teak paneling, and air-conditioning, a pollution-free sewage system and elaborate Burmese dŽcor.

The cruiser makes an ideal floating base from which to explore. Onboard she manages to combine the elegant luxury of a five-star hotel without ever losing the feeling of a classic river cruiser. Luxurious en-suite cabins are equipped with all the modern conveniences and indulgences; satellite television, video and telephone.

Our first afternoon aboard ship was spent lounging on the observation deck discovering an entirely new world along the river's edge.

Later, the ship anchored at Moktaw, where we watched the setting sun bathe the ship in an extraordinary golden light. We were just beginning to sense the strength of Myanmar magic.

The feeling was intensified the next morning. Watching an early morning mist evaporate as we came down the river to Kani, we felt transported back in time to another, more peaceful, age.

Out on the river, our days quickly settled in to a comfortable routine. Early birds found a cup of coffee and a quiet place on deck to watch the sun rise. Others slept in and gradually drifted into the dining room for omelets, fresh fruit, freshly baked bread and pastries.

Mid-morning and late afternoon we'd anchor and take a motor launch ashore to explore one of the tiny river towns. At each village, our arrival produced what soon became a familiar response; the entire population spilling out of homes, schools and the surrounding countryside to gather at river's edge to greet us.

But it wasn't only the passengers who came ashore. The Burmese crew was as eager, if not more, to explore the remote villages and to meet their fellow nationals as we were. For many, this was the first chance in their lifetime to visit the Western region of their country.

We were free to explore the towns alone, but more often than not, a local would fall in beside us to proudly escort us to the village monastery or even their home. Communication between us was crude -- smiles, hand gestures and body languages -- but the villagers were gracious, kind and patient. The beauty of Myanmar is, indeed, in its people.

Rustic and remote, rural Myanmar remains an exuberant, exotic place marked by golden pagodas and a compassionate friendly people who still favor a the traditional wrap-around longyi over Western wear. At every turn, picture-perfect opportunities seemed to present themselves. A delicately woven bamboo fence burnished in the soft glow of golden light. A young monk with nut-brown eyes in crimson robe standing beside a temple wall. A rural market or a graceful girl carrying a brightly colored parasol walking down a dusty road.

People were delightfully eager to have their photographs taken. Girls, women and young boys were striking with their yellow daubs of "thanaka" powder on their cheeks, noses, and sometimes foreheads. Even soft-spoken old women puffing fat, hand-rolled cheroots (cigars) posed proudly for pictures. Passengers with digital or video cameras always drew a crowd, especially children. A peak at the camera's LCD screen's image never failed to amaze and delight.

Returning to the ship, afternoons were spent motoring slowly along the river. Some passengers elected to steal away to their cabin for a video or a nap, others sat and watched life along the river from the observation deck, read a book, sunbathed or swam in the pool.

Evenings consisted of leisurely meals followed by a variety of guest performances ranging from native dancers, to puppeteers and Royal acrobats. Native lecturers were also onboard, sharing information on festivals, ethnic populations and customs, and the flora and fauna of Myanmar.

Orient Express Hotels set out to provide a luxury level of cruising aboard Road to Mandalay unmatched in Myanmar; amenities include Le Source Beauty Spa, air-conditioned lounge, restaurant and piano bar on the main deck, an observation deck with rattan lounge chairs, and a swimming pool. And they've succeeded. Nothing seems too much trouble for the team of nearly 80, mostly Myanmar nationals, but also British, Spanish, New Zealand and Australian staff.

Meals Ð breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner and supper -- prepared by executive chef Michael Perry are excellent. A typical seven-course meal includes wild mushroom soup; roast of lamb loin, salt crusted salmon, stuffed aubergine, French cheeses, raspberry cr�me brulee, and Belgian chocolates. Vegetarian and health food options also are available.

But the real genius of the Road to Mandalay cruise is the seemingly effortless fusion of shore excursions, solitude and social interaction. The prevailing air of intimacy and mellowness, along with the mystery and beauty of the destination and a roster of interesting passengers make a journey aboard the Road to Mandalay a voyage of a lifetime.

The expedition concluded with a visit to Bagan, former capital of the first Burmese Empire, which flourished from the 11^th century until its defeat by Kublai Khan's Mongols in 1287. Described as "the most remarkable religious city in the world," it was at one time home to 13,000 pagodas and monasteries. Today the ruins of more than 2,000 temples remain, of which perhaps 100 are world-ranking monuments, possibly rivaled only by Angkor Wat in Cambodia, or Java's Borobudur.

Our most unforgettable impression of Bagan was a sunset view from a pagoda peak. A wondrous vista of monuments rising on all sides, bathed in glistening-gold light and testifying to the devotion of generations of kings, artisans and common people. It was a sight to be cherished and remembered, and, like so much encountered along the Chindwin and Ayeyarwady rivers, proof of Myanmar's cultural abundance and inescapable allure.

In 1902, British visitor Alice Beaumont observed "From Marco Polo to Kipling, nearly everyone who has ventured to Burma has come away enchanted by the place -- the golden pagodas, the endless rice paddies and a gentle people who have elevated their devotion to Buddha into a stunning art form that encompasses nearly every aspect of life." A century later, this is still true.

Who cruises?

The ship boasts an International passenger list. Of 27 passengers on this voyage, 18 were from the U.S., 2 Canadians, 3 from Australia, and 4 were Myanmar nationals. Most were well-to-do, mature passengers who described themselves as ÒretiredÓ or Òsemi-retired.Ó

When to go?

Due to dramatic changes in water levels from the wet to dry season, navigation on the Chindwin is very seasonal. Thus the Road to Mandalay Chindwin voyage is possible only in September, when water levels are at the highest after the summer monsoons.

WhatÕs the enjoyment level?

On arriving at Bagan, most of the passengers were reluctant to leave the ship and were reading the brochures to book another cruise.

For information and reservations: www.orient-expresstrains.com; 800-524-2420.

Entry documents: U.S. citizens need both a passport and a visa to visit Myanmar. The Road to Mandalay will help make arrangements for your visa.

The Barones are full-time freelance travel writers and photographers operating out of their home in rural New Mexico. Their work appears in a wide variety of regional, national and international publications. For more information contact them at barones@intlmediagroup.com.

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