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Kanantik Reef & Jungle Resort, situated on the southern Caribbean coast of Belize, is an eco-sensitive jungle hideaway that somehow manages to be both luxurious and primitive – a great base for exploring this Central American wonderland.

"Go ahead, touch it. It's friendly. It won't hurt you."

I stopped in mid-reach, suddenly wary, and asked, "Why me, and not you?" After all, this wasn't a cuddly puppy on display in a pet shop, this was a 30-foot, 20,000-pound whale shark, the largest fish in the seas today.

Two days after my arrival in Belize, I was within arm's length of one of the world's most amazing endangered species. I knew this tiny rectangle of Central America, tucked below the Yucatan on the Caribbean Sea, is considered one of the best destinations for eco-tourism in the Western Hemisphere. I also knew that this little country-- barely the size of Massachusetts-- is made up of vast swaths of untouched rainforest, endless Savannah, mangrove coasts and the longest barrier reef this side of Australia. That much I knew.

What I hadn't realized was that reef and jungle could be so much fun. It was good old-fashioned natural abundance -- offered up with a healthy dose of post-adventure pampering -- that made my first trip to Belize so beguiling.

Arriving in Belize City, entry point for most visitors arriving by air, natural beauty is not what greets the eye. Owing to its reputation as tropical hellhole, the city is bypassed in favor of a trip aboard a tiny Cessna to one of Belize's newest upscale resorts, Kanantik, situated on the southern coast.

Flying domestically in Belize is an adventure in itself. Because the planes tend to be rather small, passengers can watch everything the pilot does -- and I had the best view of all from the co-pilot's seat. Two Belizeans and a friendly, middle-aged couple from Texas were along for the ride.

Locals and cargo were offloaded twice before my final stop, each stop involving hair-raising landings and takeoffs on tiny primitive airstrips which were little more than gravel tracks inches from the sea. But flying low and slow along the Caribbean coast offered spectacular, panoramic views of the barrier reef, cays and jungle.

Kanantik's private airstrip is seemingly in the middle of no-man's-land. From the air, the neatly groomed gravel airstrip looked out of place, surrounded by impenetrable vegetation. The pilot radioed our arrival and motioned for me to prepare to disembark. After landing, and without a soul in sight to greet me, the pilot handed me my bag and prepared to leave.

Poking her head out the door of the plane and looking concerned, the lady from Texas said "Darlin' you all aren’t getting off here all by ya'self, I hope. Is someone coming to meet you all?"

As if in response to her question, a shiny new Kanantik Resort Mercedes-Benz van emerged from the thick jungle. Two guides in crisply starched safari suits stepped out to greet me.

"Welcome to Kanantik, Mrs. Barone," they said as the Cessna roared off.

In the Maya Mopan language, Kanantik means to "take care." So it's only natural, I suppose, that you expect to be well looked after at a resort with that moniker.

Developed by Roberto Fabbri and Gianfrancesco Moscatelli, a dynamic duo of 60-something Italians with a flair for design and a love for the environment, Kanantik is an eco-sensitive jungle hideaway that somehow manages to be both luxurious and primitive.

Built on 1,300 feet of whitesand beach backed by 300 acres of forest, Kanantik is located in the Stann Creek district just south of Dangriga. The site includes 25 thatched-roof cabañas, each indulgently spacious and set far apart for maximum privacy. Constructed in a unique blend of Mayan tradition and contemporary style, each cabaña is appointed with handcrafted furnishings and a large oceanfront deck.

Riding to the resort from the landing strip, I felt as if I'd stepped on to the set of Jurassic Park. The van trundled down a rugged dirt track, cutting through a steaming and tangled world of lush vegetation: mangroves, swamp cypresses, ferns, vines, and flowers creeping from tree to tree creating a dense growth. The driver slowed the van to point out a crocodile sunning itself in a muddy riverbed. The croc blinked a sleepy eye in recognition before resuming its siesta.

As we approached the Kanantik resort, I spotted a thatched-roof bamboo structure towering above the tree canopy. The driver explained that it was one of the resort's two wildlife observation towers where guests can catch a glimpse of one of the many wild jungle creatures that roam there. I didn't see any jaguars -- the third-largest cats in the world, outweighed only by lions and tigers -- during my four-day visit, but more than 50 sightings by guests are recorded in the resort wildlife log.

Nevertheless, it wasn't the roar of the famous feline that provided my morning wake-up call. It came as a raucous cacophony of chattering chachalacas -- fat, pheasant-like birds held in reverence by the Maya -- just outside my cabaña. Heeding their summons, I abandoned my customary habit of sleeping late, shuffling a few steps to a beachfront hammock to watch the sunrise.

My first two days were spent in and on the water. Each morning, I'd hop aboard the resort dive or fishing boat with fellow guests for a day at sea. The day's catch-- snapper, grouper, sea bass, halibut, wahoo or tuna -- usually ended up in the Kanantik kitchen, served up fresh for dinner later that evening.

It was on my second day out deep-sea fishing when the whale shark surfaced. Hovering close to the boat's dive platform, the shark floated on the water's surface, seemingly curious and friendly. With the dive master's urging, I crawled out onto the dive platform. The gentle giant swam closer, allowing me to stroke it -- an experience I'll forever treasure.

The pace at the all-inclusive Kanantik is languorous, the pleasures simple, the sea perfect for snorkeling, scuba, or fishing, the jungle accessible for exploring and the cold Belizean beer (Belikin) plentiful.

Also plentiful in this once-thriving corner of the Mayan Empire, are the diminutive, small-boned, brown-skinned Maya; nearly 30,000 of the country's entire population of 240,000. Dating back as early as 1500 B.C., the Maya civilization mysteriously and dramatically declined by the year 900.

For centuries modern scholars of the world have asked, "What happened to the Maya people?"

Well, just ask the Maya cadre at Kanantik and they'll tell you that the natives are not extinct. They never vanished or disappeared. True, they may not be in the pyramid-building or human-sacrifice business anymore, but they're certainly not extinct.

In fact, traces of their presence -- past and present -- are everywhere. So, along with four other adventurous Kanantik guests, I took advantage of the resort's day-trip to one of Belize's finest Maya archaeological sites, Xunantunich (zoo-nahn-too-NEECH -- "Stone Lady"). Located close to the Guatemalan border and overlooking the Mopal River, this historic ceremonial center contains more than 25 temples and palaces, including the 135-foot El Castillo, located on a natural limestone ridge. The site provides a splendid view of the thick, green Guatemalan Peten District and the Maya Mountains -- plus Belize's Cayo District, noted for its pristine forests, stunning waterfalls and limestone caves.

But those Maya sites are only part of Belize's rich cultural heritage. The Garifuna, descendants of a unique racial blend of escaped African slaves and Carib Indians, ended up on the coast of Belize after a 200-year persecution in the Caribbean islands by European powers. That evening, back at Kanantik, a troupe of spirited Garifuna dancers and drummers from a nearby village treated guests to an energetic and informative performance.

But it was my last night, and I stole away from the performance a little early and join a few other guests at the poolside bar. Sipping a cold Belikin, I took in the night's rhythms, the friendly chatter of guests, the pulsing beat of the Garifuna drummers and the hypnotic crashing of waves. A tree frog chorus was in full voice. It was wonderful.

Heading back to my cabaña, I spotted a brownish rodent about the size of a large rabbit with white spots along its back scurrying past me, absorbed in its nighttime pursuits. I'd read somewhere that the paca is favored prey of the jaguar, but despite my fears no big cat bounded from the undergrowth.

In less than a week, the pocket-sized paradise of Belize had served up the elusive whale shark, ancient civilizations, singing frogs and creatures of the night, without sacrificing any of my own creature comforts.

Wild and wonderful, Belize is just one exhilarating adventure after another.

If You Go:

Location: Belize is located on the Caribbean coast of Central America, 750 miles from Miami. Its neighbors are Mexico to the north and Guatemala to the west and south.

Climate and When To Go: In common with many tropical countries, Belize experiences two seasons, the wet and the dry. The dry season is generally from about November to May, the rest of the year tends to be wet. Note: In the tropics it's not unusual to have rain in the dry season.

Getting There: Most flights come in to the Belize City. American Airlines operates a daily non-stop flights from Miami to Belize City (800-433-7300; www.aa.com.) Also offering daily flights are US Airways (800-428-4322; www.usairways.com ), Continental (800-231-0856; www.continental.com ) and newly added flights via Air Jamaica (800-523-5585; www.airjamaica.com ). *Direct flights to Kanantik's private airstrip are offered through Maya Island Air (800-225-6732) and can be arranged through the resort.

Entry Requirements: A valid passport is required to enter, along with proof of return. No visas are required from the US.

Kanantik Reef & Jungle Resort: Cost is $300 all-inclusive, per person, per night; includes scuba, breakfast, lunch and dinner, excursions to Maya ruins and jaguar preserve, guided canoe trips and hikes, water sports equipment (kayaks, hobie cats & windsurfers) and local rums, beers and juices. Sport fishing is available at an additional cost. For client comfort the resort closes during the rainy months of September and October. (800-965-9689, www.kanantik.com )

Time Zone: Belize's time zone is equivalent to the US Central Standard Time. Note: Day-light-saving time is not observed in Belize.

Language: English is the official language of Belize.

Currency: The Belize currency is the Belize Dollar, or BZ. However, US Dollars are widely accepted throughout the country.

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