Story by Ellen Barone
Every culture has its unique form of relaxation
where people can be themselves, where they can escape the effort and tension of
daily life and enjoy the convivial company of others. In the British Virgin
Islands, a region where life still revolves around the water, that activity is
sailing.
It is the fourth of July. My husband, Hank,
lounges comfortably in the cockpit of a luxurious 45-foot yacht cruising easily
through the tranquil blue waters of the Caribbean, a cold drink in his hand. At
the helm is an amenable and experienced captain aiming for the eveningís
anchorage, an isolated cove still an hourís sail away. I nap on the foredeck,
eyes closed and face turned to catch the warm glow of the tropical sun. Below
deck, a blender whirs and savory smells waft up from the galley where the chef
prepares hors díoeuvres, cocktails and, later, the catch of the day.
Had we won the lottery? No, we simply rented paradise for the week, and so can you.
A warren of sheltered coves and bays scalloped
into a thorny green spine of peaceful islands dotted with Crayola-colored
buildings and trimmed in ribbons of white sand beaches, the B.V.I.ís easy
deep-water island-hops, consistent breezes, protected waters and numerous
anchorages for evenings ashore, make it one of the worldís most popular sailing
destinations.
We had day-sailed enough to know that we would
enjoy the simple pleasures of a sailing vacation: intimacy, sunshine, laughter,
wind, and water ó endless vistas of shimmering shades of cobalt, turquoise and
blue. But, like many, we lacked
the knowledge and experience required to bareboat. On a friendsí
recommendation, we signed on for The Moorings' Signature Vacations Stateroom
Package, a simple, and surprisingly affordable, way to hop aboard a
half-million-dollar yacht for a week.
Opting for the stability and spaciousness of a
catamaran over a traditional monohull, we booked passage aboard Triple Dog
Dare, a
six-passenger, 45-foot custom built craft, with South African captain Warren
Thring and Canadian chef/first mate Spike Shavers.
Warren and Spike met us at the The Moorings
Marina on Tortola, introduced us to the other passengers, Ken Sheppard, Ryan
Kaestner, and Bill and Myscha Crouch, and then welcomed us aboard. By the time
we had selected our staterooms, stowed our bags, and changed into T-shirts and
shorts, we were under way. First stop Peter Island.
It took no more than a few hours for the spell
to kick in. When we dropped anchor in Deadman Bay, smiles had taken up
permanent residence on our faces.
Perhaps it is easiest to describe the experience
of sailing in the B.V.I., by what we did not do. We did not wear
shoes, watch TV, check email, wear a watch, prepare a meal, or make plans of
any kind. We did not know what day of the week it was - nor did we care. What we did do was sail, eat, snorkel
and sleep; sail, eat, snorkel and sleep...
As the anchorages, beaches, islands and reefs
accumulated - we lost track of time and place. "Where were we yesterday," one
of us would ask. "Uh, Virgin Gorda? Or was it Jost Van Dyke?" "What day is
today?" another would ask. We did not know or care.
Spike's adeptness in the galley became a
highlight of each day. In the yacht's tiny galley she prepared meals that would
rival those of any popular restaurant: coconut flaked shrimp, grilled
mahi-mahi, sesame asparagus, prosciutto and melon, lamb, cranberry/pear salsa,
profiteroles, bananas foster, and more. We dined family-style in the cockpit -
strangers transformed into friends through the alchemy of cuisine and
conversation.
With 20 years of experience under his keel,
Warren proved to be a most affable captain and companion. While we engaged in
the languorous banter of carefree vacationers, Warren was draped over the
engine cleaning and replacing salt-encrusted electrical connections, thus
assuring we slept in air-conditioned comfort.
A crewed yacht charter in the Caribbean is about
resting, reading, sailing, snorkeling, exploring, conversation and, of course, rum
- perhaps the true elixir of the sailing experience.
Long the tipple of sailors and pirates, the
delicious slightly sweet distilled spirit made from sugar cane by-products has
historically been the lifeblood of the islands and Triple Dog Dare held strong with
tradition. Thanks to Spike, the amber colored nectar flowed freely. "Anyone for
a Rum Punch? A Dark & Stormy? A Bushwhacker? A Painkiller?" ... She would
call from the galley.
Unlike the rigid fixed itineraries of the mega
cruise ships, if we liked a place and wanted to stay longer, the discussion
with Warren went something like this.
"We'd really like to stay here (Anegada) another
day."
"Okay."
It was that easy.
In
contrast to the mountainous volcanic formations of most of the B.V.I., Anegada,
an island of some 200 inhabitants, is tortilla-flat. Its highest point, 28-feet
above sea level, is a treetop, as far as we could tell. It is also surrounded
by the worldís third largest barrier reef, a bonus for snorkelers; a
treacherous obstacle for amateur sailors, making it off limits to all but the
most experienced. Without our able captain Warren, we could not have sailed
there.
Anegada seduced us into a level of languor
previously unimaginable. We spent the morning snorkeling and beach walking at
quiet Loblolly Bay. It was two p.m. when Hank and I, the first to return, found
Warren and Spike at a waterfront picnic table ordering lunch. Nothing else to
do, we reasoned, but order a rum smoothie, the house specialty.
At three, Ryan joined us, and ordered a round of
Dark & Stormys. At four, after discovering that Myscha and Bill were due on
the five oíclock taxi, we ordered more. At five-thirty, they arrived, quickly
assessed the indolent vibe, and ordered another round. The sun was fast setting
at seven when we finally piled into the dinghy and motored the 50 yards back to
Triple Dog Dare.
Time flies when youíre having rum.
#####
TRAVELER'S GUIDE
Why sail? One yachtsman told me
ìIf you like to vacation in Las Vegas, I'd recommend a cruise ship; if you'd
prefer the Scottish Highlands, you'll be at home on a yacht.î On our voyage,
all six passengers were from the U.S.: Colorado, New York, Tennessee and New
Mexico. Three of the six had sailed with The Moorings before. In fact, combined
they accounted for more than 20 previous sailings. The average age of
passengers was 46. Most passengers described themselves as average to
accomplished sailors and easy going.
Why a crewed charter? Passenger Ken Sheppard,
a certified sailing captain, summed it up nicely: ìI used to bareboat, but I
tired of having all of the responsibility while my passengers were busy having
all of the fun. On a crewed charter, I can still take the helm when the mood
strikes, but I am also free to explore and relax.î
Dress: Super casual. Think
bathing suits and quick dry everything. Though it is a luxury yacht, it is not
like a luxury resort where you have to dress to impress. In fact, dressing up
in the B.V.I. means putting on a clean T-shirt, dry shorts and flip-flops. The
One Love beach bar in White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, advertises "No Shirt. No Shoes.
No Clothes. No Problem."
What does it cost? A six-night, seven-day
Moorings Signature Vacation in the B.V.I. currently begins at $1,149 per
person, all-inclusive.
The Moorings has bases not only in
the B.V.I. and in all parts of the Caribbean, but also the Mediterranean,
Indian Ocean, and the South Pacific. All yachts, from 32 to 62 feet, are less
than five years old, with every stateroom boasting its own bathroom with hot
water shower. Everything is included in one price, from the captain and chef to
the kayaks and sailboards to the gourmet food and fully stocked bar. The
Mooringsí full-service travel agency walks you through the planning process,
from choosing the right boat to booking flights, hotels and local activities.
To learn more, visit www.moorings.com or
call (888) 952-8420.
Extend Your Stay:
Extend your sailing vacation
with a few days of the suite-life at Biras Creek Resort, a luxurious, low-key hideaway on
Virgin Gorda. (800) 223-1108; www.biras.com.
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