Hidden Uruguay

Laid-back and well off the beaten path of mainstream tourism, Uruguay offers a broad range of vacation pleasures.

by Dave G. Houser

Just a short hop from Argentina's capital of Buenos Aires - and a number of Brazilian cities - Uruguay has long been a playground for wealthy South Americans. During the sun-drenched austral winter - from mid-December through March - the Atlantic coast, especially the 140 km (84 mile) stretch between Montevideo and Punta del Este, is a beach lover's paradise.

Punta del Este is party headquarters with all the hotels, casinos, yacht marinas, shopping and restaurants needed to prove it. The Uruguayan Riviera, as the area is known, lures not only the rich and famous, but an increasing number of vacationers of more moderate means and from more distant lands. That's because a visit to Uruguay nowadays is relatively inexpensive compared to most of the world's popular vacation destinations. And by virtue of its remote location and relative political insignificance, Uruguay has to be one of the safest places in the world to vacation. It is of little interest to the organizers of international terrorism - in part, perhaps, because it reveals practically nothing in the way of American presence and attracts only a limited number of visitors from the United States.

Crime isn't a serious problem here either - as it is in Argentina where banks and shopping centers are patrolled by machine-gun toting guards. There's none of that in Uruguay today, though anyone of middle age or greater shares the memory of a repressive right wing military dictatorship during the 70's and early 80's that resulted in the "disappearance" and torture of thousands of Uruguayans.

With cove after cove of blue-green waves splashing onto wide crescents of creamy sand - beginning right in the capital city of Montevideo and sweeping northeast all the way to the Brazilian border, there's plenty of room (and budget options) for everyone.

Most visitors arrive in Montevideo on one of the many 40-minute daily flights from Buenos Aires. The two capital cities literally face each other across the wide estuary of the Rio de la Plata and there's the option too of making the crossing via ferry or fast hydrofoil. Although Montevideo, with just 1.5 million residents, is somewhat overshadowed by its much larger and glitzier neighbor, the two cities share cultural roots - European heritage, attitudes and architecture, the local rioplatense dialect (Spanish heavily influenced by Italian), incredible barbecues known as asados and, of course, the tango. The two economies are closely linked as well. Argentina's near fatal fiscal meltdown of a few years ago fostered a stubborn recession in Uruguay that has been tough on many of its 3.2 million citizens - but good for value-seeking vacationers.

Those with urban tastes and inclinations will enjoy a day or two in Montevideo. The city center, which embraces a pair of large plazas, is compact, clean, safe and quite walkable. To the west, Ciudad Vieja , the colonial-era old town, leads down to the harbour. This picturesque but somewhat scruffy neighborhood is home to the city's best dining and entertainment. Book a room at the excellent 253-room Radisson Plaza Montevideo Hotel & Casino where you'll be at the heart of things and nicely cared for as well. As you step from the lobby onto spacious Plaza Independencia the ornate tower just ahead is Palacio Salvo, once the tallest building in South America. To the left is the 18^th century Palacio Estevez that once served as the governor's house, while the monolithic statue at the west end of the Plaza tops the mausoleum of national hero Jose Artigas.

A pedestrian mall lined with shops, cafes and artist stalls leads to Plaza Constitucion where the leafy common is often the scene of an antique market or feria. It is a great spot from which to people-watch as you sip tea or coffee at a sidewalk café. You'll quickly notice that it is not coffee or tea as we know it that most Uruguayans prefer as a hot drink. That's mate, a traditional tea-like drink made from the chopped leaf of yerba mate, a relative of the common holly, and sipped from a gourd through a silver straw or bombilla. Most visitors find it bitter and even a bit boring but in Uruguay, Argentina and Paraguay preparing and drinking mate is a ritual. Many a person can be seen here with a thermos of hot water tucked under an arm and a mate gourd clasped in one handÉand nowadays, more than ever, a cell phone gripped in the other.

At Louvre Antiques & Jewellery, on the pedestrian mall between the Plazas, check out the antique mate gourds and bombillas delicately overlaid with gold and/or silver. This may be the most unique gift item from Uruguay but the most popular is leather. The country is a major cattle and beef producer and consequently there's a ready source of hide from which Montevideo's craftsmen make high quality shoes and clothing. Casa Mario in the Ciudad Vieja is the place to buy the finest leather for the price.

Best time to check out the old town waterfront area is early afternoon when the popular old wrought iron Mercado Del Puerto hums with activity. The city's freshest seafood can be found here at La Posada de Don Tiburon and for some of that tantalizing parrillada - a mixed grill of beefsteak and other meats -- you will find El Palenque a good choice. You'll see tango dancers strut their stuff, strolling minstrels, plus artists and craftsmen displaying their creations. For an informal introduction to tango, go to Baar Fun Fun at Mercado Central (no earlier than 11 pm) or Joventango in Mercado de la Abundancia.

The legendary tango singer/dancer Carlos Gardel gained his fame in Buenos Aires but he was born in Uruguay and often performed in Montevideo. So there's just as much interest in tango here as in Argentina and the sultry dance has experienced a stirring renaissance in recent years. Everyone it seems is doing it - or wants to do it - and so tango schools and clubs are popping up throughout the country.

Casino gambling is popular here as it is in most of South America, and there's a rather nice casino with a slot parlor and table games at the Radisson. Maronas Entertainment operates a downtown casino, housed in the lovely old national landmark El Dia newspaper building, that features state-of-the-art slots and off-track betting on horse races from around the world. Add some real excitement to your wagering by picking ponies at the magnificent National Racetrack of Maronas on the eastern edge of the city. Hipodromo Nacional de Maronas opened in 1874 and became one of South America's most important horse racing centers but mismanagement and economic hard times forced closure of the track in 1997. A partnership comprised of South American thoroughbred breeders and international gaming interests refurbished the historic facility, which reopened to racing in June, 2003. Maronas, which offers both casual and fine dining, races Saturday and Sunday afternoons all year long. Lights are being added to allow for night races, expected to begin in October, 2004.

Although there are some great beaches right in the city of Montevideo, you'll want to rent a car (Europecar has the best deals but make arrangements in advance) and head east along the waterfront avenue known as La Rambla which eventually feeds into Hwy 1 bound for Punta Del Este. At Punta Ballena, a scenic headland about 10kms (6 miles) west of Punta Del Este, stop by all means for a visit to Casapueblo. This whimsical white multilevel hotel and art gallery without corners looks either Moorish or Gaudi-ish depending on your perspective. It is the creation of Uruguay's most popular living artist, Carlos Paez Vilaro and a wing of it serves as his atelier and gallery.

A stay at the adjoining Paez Vilaro-designed hotel, where rooms and swimming pools cascade down the cliffside to a lovely cove beach, will rank among your most memorable lodging experiences. And remember this is not the French Riviera: at high season, rooms at Casapueblo range from just $90 to $200 double occupancy, breakfast included. Dinner with wine at a fine restaurant in Montevideo or Punta Del Este will rarely top $50 per couple. A beer at a beachside bar goes for about two bucks. The peso is the local unit of exchange but most businesses dealing with visitors accept U.S. dollars (exchange rate at press time: $1 = $29 pesos).

The town of Punta Del Este is situated on a punta or point -- a narrow spit of land that juts on one side into the Rio de la Plata and on the other into the South Atlantic Ocean. Around its edge towering white condominiums line Rambla General Artigas as it leads past a manicured waterfront promenade, punctuated with bars and indoor/outdoor restaurants and busy with strollers, bikers, joggers and in-line skaters. Cutting across the neck of the peninsula is Avenida Gorlero, a wild string of cafes, shops, currency exchanges and arcades that throbs night and day with frenetic activity. There are some nice upscale boutiques along downtown side streets but the real reason to be in Punta Del Este is the peninsula's splendid beaches. Park yourself at the five-star Conrad Resort & Casino, a futuristic highrise that affords a fantastic view of the ocean and most of the punta as well, and you are only steps from a white sand beach that stretches for miles.

Brightly colored beach umbrellas create a classic postcard look up and down the coast, accentuated by an army of beautiful young bodies. Tall and tan and young and lovelyÉthe girl from Punta Del Este will stand up any day to the girl from Impanema. Sand sports dominate the fringes of the area's broad beaches, including soccer, beach volleyball and badminton. On the calm estuary side of the peninsula, off Mansa Beach, the action includes jet skiing, windsurfing, sailboating and parasailing.

Surfing, though not great, is gaining a following along the wilder Atlantic beaches. A bit farther east lies the casual little beach town of La Barra with its strip of hip bars and restaurants. La Barra, along with the sleepy fishing village of Jose Ignacio, 10kms (6 miles) farther up the coast, have become the region's trendy hot spots in recent seasons. In Jose Ignacio the jet set's favorite dining spot is Los Negros, a jewel of a restaurant just beneath the town's lighthouse. Try the catch of the day by candelight - or come for lunch when the same food is half the price. A not-so-fancy little diner nearby named Santa Teresita is famous for its seaweed omelete and is another good choice for brunch or lunch.

Don't be reluctant to try the many fine Uruguayan and Argentine wines offered at nearly every restaurant. Blue Cheese, a venerable waterfront eatery in Punta Del Este features one of the area's best wine lists - and great salads, seafood and pasta as well. Beware, however, that no one goes out to dinner before 9:30 pm and the action at clubs and discos doesn't really get underway until about midnight. Needless to say, early morning is the quite time around Punta Del Este - and a perfect time to jog or stroll the deserted streets and beaches.

Conrad's huge casino, the largest entertainment center in South America, steels the show in terms of nightlife on the Point. This dazzling facility features 63 tables for roulette, baccarat, blackjack, poker and dice, and more than 450 slot machines. The sprawling Conrad resort also lists five restaurants and six bars, several entertainment lounges, plus a roof-top pool area and a full-service spa.

There's more to Uruguay, of course, than its beaches. The peaceful, rolling pampas of the country's interior spread out in a patchwork of estancias or ranches where you can share in the day-to-day life of the Uruguayan cowboy or gaucho. In the northwest, between Paysandu and Salto, there's a string of hot springs resorts. And history buffs will enjoy combing the cobbled lanes of Colonia del Sacramento, a remarkably well preserved 17^th century Portuguese smuggling outpost, now a UNESCO world heritage site, on the Rio de la Plata west of Montevideo.

Uruguay, however, is not likely to appear on any mainstream list of the world's top ten tourist destinations - but the secret is spreading about this safe, sunny and affordable South American surprise.

(BOX)

If You Go:

Weather is great, room rates drop and crowds diminish during the fringe months of April and December.

A valid passport is required to enter Uruguay but U.S. citizens do not need a visa.

Most international flights to and from Montevideo's Aeropeurto Carrasco pass through Buenos Aires' Ezeiza Airport. That's the case with some American and United Airlines flights originating in the U.S. LANChile can get you to Montevideo as well from several U.S. cities via Santiago.

The Ministry of Tourism's website, www.turismo.gub.uy, will acquaint you in English with the country's many vacation opportunities, although the language options can be hard to spot at the top left of the home page. While the ministry does not maintain tourist offices in the United States, you can obtain tourism and general information about Uruguay from the Cultural Department at the Embassy of Uruguay in Washington DC, (202) 331-1313 or at cultural@uruwashi.org.

#####

Dave G. Houser is an award-winning New Mexico-based travel journalist and member of Society of American Travel Writers (SATW) and North American Travel Journalists Association (NATJA). See www.houser.squarespace.com